After multiple attempts at sleeve muslins, I truly have lost count. I finally settled on a style that gives a nod to the traditional Filipina sleeve found in the mestiza dress. I found a great tutorial explaining how it is done.
The fabric as I said before is from the Philippines and was designed to make long skirt with blouse similar to this style. I did not want such a formal dress and wanted it to be a little more modern.
Since I am petite, I was able to make the skirt into a close-fitting dress with shoulder straps. I waited a long long time to finally make the sheer jacket mainly because I didn’t want to ruin my fabric with the wrong cut!
Now that I have my custom dress form I felt a lot braver.
I used Simplicity 5959 for the shape of the jacket bodice. Drafted and redrafted the sleeve pattern. I realized although I’m petite at less than 5’1″, my arms are a little bulkier than average (must be all the lifting I do, ha!). So I had to make the sleeve wider. I shortened the bodice which raised the armscye, and I moved the bust dart lower. I also gave it a narrow shoulder adjustment and a broad back adjustment between my shoulders.
So please excuse my messy office and also the tracing marks on the fabric.
I used french seams for all seams including the armscyes. Pinned sleeve to bodice wrong sides together and sewed a 3/8 inch seam. Then trimmed seam allowance to around 1/8 inch. Turned the fabric so that right sides were together then sewed a 1/4 inch seam which enclosed the raw edges.
Here is a photo of the embroidery. This was part of the fabric. I did not do it!
Now I can finally move on to other projects! Till Next Time!
Wow! I have always been super intimidatd by french seams in the armcyes- yours look so flawless an professional, I have got to try it again. Beautiful jacket!
Thanks! I saw a tutorial here http://grainlinestudio.com/2012/03/15/sewing-tutorial-french-all-your-seams/ that encouraged me to do an armscye French seam.
Your jacket looks wonderful!!!! Congratulations on such a beautiful job! Thanks for the link and I am so happy that I was able to help, in a small way. Wear your beautiful creation with pride:)
Thank you for your help and explanation of how it’s done!! Love it. Can’t wait to wear it somewhere.
So beautiful!! Such detail. I loved the french seams. You are giving me so much inspiration
Thank you!
That is so pretty!
Thanks much!
WOW that is amazing! You must where it to work one day would love to see it on you.
Well, not going to say that will never happen…. but instead I posted some pictures on the blog. I love it! Thanks Eileen!
love that I spelled where and not wear
Wow that is gorgeous, what a great use of the fabric. So pretty!
Thanks! It’s my favorite project so far.
I love that you have used a traditional fabric and then created a unique look with it. Lovely work!
Thank you! It’s one of my favorite dresses.