Well, after some alterations to the pattern, I am finally done with my Vogue Couturier Design 188 dress. Got the pattern off of eBay. I guess it is pretty rare since I have not seen it since. I made a muslin for the bodice and thought it fit well enough that I went ahead and made a full lining. The fashion fabric was lightweight Thai Silk and it needed a lining. It probably needed underlining but I skipped it. The fabric easily unraveled so before I would cut out each piece I used Fray Check on the pattern piece outline.
Vogue Couturier Design 100 has similar draping but the draping is part of the bodice front and not an addition to it and also has a full barrel skirt. It is also on eBay once in while. That might be my next project.
I found that my arm movement seemed limited and it just seemed ill fitting. With the help of Lynda Maynard from Sew the Perfect Fit and LiEr from ikatbag.com, I reshaped the front of the armscye to have a better curve and I extended out the shoulder point 1/4 of inch. The shoulder seam also was brought forward 1/4 of an inch. The sleeve cap was altered so that it would not be as severe of an angle. Because I took in the bodice, the sleeves ended up being a little more gathered at the top than I think the pattern intended.
I brought the square neckline sides in a little. The waist was widened by not making the darts as deep and then an inch added to overall width of the skirt. I adjusted the back to account for a small swayback.
Lynda’s class Sew the Perfect Fit was a great help. The skirt was shortened several inches and redrafted the overskirt and overskirt facing to adjust the curve and match the length. It also has a waist stay. The instructions had me finish the seams with bias facing. All seams except center back and armscyes have french seams.
I used my Singer 201-2 for most of the sewing with the silk. It was very smooth and the stitches were very uniform. When I tried sewing the sleeve hem with my Bernina, the stitches were gathering and it was terrible. I did use my Bernina to insert my invisible zipper using the #35 foot. I also machine stitched the lining to the zipper. I also used the #63 foot for the hem for the lining. It worked great.
The bodice was shortened and the draping adjusted also. The draping on the front was slipstitched down on either side because it would gape when I sat down or leaned over. I’m thinking about tacking it down in the middle somewhere too.
The pattern also called for a 3/4″ belt. So I considered purchasing a belt kit from Maxant, but they are reorganizing!! The website is not functional. I did call them and I was told that they should be up and running again in about two weeks. He also said that they won’t be charging a ridiculous $10 for shipping. Not sure if I will make a belt but nice to know that I will have that option.
Just for fun, here are some photos of my finished StyleArc Kate Dress.