At side seams only, I went from size 10 at top of bodice and graded to 12 at the waist. I also decreased dart amount in the back darts in both bodice and skirt to give me more room at waist. In addition to adding fullness at the bust as seen in previous post, I added a 0.5 inch in length to the front bodice. Also on side front I added a 0.5 inch of length toward front and tapered to original length at side seam. You can see the alteration as a blue line. I used a light box and traced over the pattern and adding below the bust above waist seam. I then trued the vertical seams. Other additional alterations included shortening the skirt at the hips. And tapering from size 12 at waist back to size 10 on the skirt.
I machine stitched the lining to the zipper as nicely illustrated here and here. Also on Craftsy.com there is a free video zipper course that was very good.
I had not put the boning at side seams because I was too lazy. The zipper is in the side seam because my zipper placement isn’t always perfect. On this dress, I didn’t want to chance a puckered center back. After I placed the straps, this is what it looked like.
I had sagging at the side seams and ripples. Not happy! I shortened the straps about a 0.5 inch and moved them slightly lateral. I had hoped to hide bra straps, but now needs a strapless one. I also added boning to side seams. I had never used boning before and it went in nicely although I wish I had done it before the lining was attached. I hand-stitched the hem and used my #66 foot for the narrow hem of the lining.
Overall, I am very pleased with it. The Sew the Perfect Fit and The Couture Dress on Craftsy.com were very helpful.
It can also be worn as the underdress to my piña fabric shift dress that I had submitted to Julia Bobbin’s Mad Men Dress Challenge 2. Not really a copy of a Mad Men dress but more in spirit of it. Looking forward to seeing the other dresses!
My next project will be making the overdress. Hope you all have a great week!